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First impressions: A multi-celled lobby tent is full of gentle curves and soft natural light, but the stunning views outside leave me in no rush to check in. Rows of rectangular tents are spread out on a broad plateau of red rock, looking east across a valley where the shadows of flat-topped mesas stretch to the shimmering surface of Lake Powell. In the distance, the broad mass of Arizona's Navajo Mountain looms over a majestic landscape glowing red in the rays of the setting sun.

Rooms: The use of rough-worked logs rather than metal beams creates a pleasantly rustic feel, but it's obvious that a lot of thought went into the design of each structure. A privacy screen separates the bathroom from the rest of my deluxe tent, which comes with a calfskin rug and leather seating. A wood stove completes the picture, although I never have to stoke it thanks to a thick duvet on the king-size bed. An east-facing patio with several chairs provides an ideal vantage point for taking in the views of the vast valley below.

Some rooms also have children's tents. These freestanding tipis with two single beds are located just a few metres from the main tent and are ideal for families looking for a bit of adventure.

Bathroom: The bathroom is compact and the key feature is the pull chain shower which helps reduce water consumption. The water is hot and the pressure excellent but the shower only works when the chain is actively pulled. Low water consumption toilets and refillable plant-based toiletries complete the sustainability theme.

Food and Drink: The hotel's Embers restaurant is open from 7am to 10am and 5pm to 10pm, offering hearty, nutritious meals with an emphasis on whole foods – think burgers, trout fillets and grain bowls. Special dietary needs are well catered for, but there's no lunch service, as Under Canvas encourages guests to spend their days exploring the surrounding parks. Instead, you'll find grab-and-go food and a complimentary tea and coffee station in the lobby, while the bar serves several excellent local beers and closes at 10am.

The reception tent offers indoor dining, but few guests take advantage of it. Instead, meals are taken beside a canyon that runs right through the property. A balcony over the rock wall gives guests a direct view of the canyon floor, dotted with green clumps of sagebrush and twisted juniper trees. When darkness falls, the nearby fire pits become natural gathering spots for guests who take advantage of the complimentary s'mores kits in the lobby.

Facilities: You won't find a gym, meeting rooms or Wi-Fi on-site, as guests are encouraged to disconnect during their stay, although a nearby phone tower provides mobile reception. Instead, there are evening activities including yoga, guided stargazing and full moon hikes, while a small slot canyon is accessible on-site via a 15-minute hiking trail.

In the neighborhood: US 89 runs past the property, but the nearest town is 19 miles away, so be prepared. Fortunately, there are more outdoor attractions than shops in this part of the world. Iconic Southwest sights like The Wave and Horseshoe Bend are just across the border in Arizona, while the Utah side offers the striking rock formations of Toadstools State Park, the incredibly photogenic canyons of Kanab, and the easily accessible Moqui Caves.

Sustainability: Sustainability is at the heart of Under Canvas. Each off-grid tent is equipped with battery-operated lights and fans, as well as power banks for charging personal devices. Water-pumped showers and low-water-use toilets are designed to conserve water. During the off-season from October to March, tents can be packed up to reduce the impact on the surrounding landscape.

There are no significant light sources nearby and soft lighting in and between the tents helps make the stargazing experience truly exceptional. That's why Under Canvas Lake Powell-Grand Staircase became the first DarkSky certified accommodation in the world.

Contact: undercanvas.com/camps/lake-powell

The author was a guest of the Utah Office of Tourism